On a positive note:

I feel that a lot of what I write gives a fairly negative view of Rwanda and Africa in general. It’s easy to write that way, life in Rwanda is hard- not just for me but for everyone with whom I work and live. In Rwanda life is real, it is gritty and one really notices it happening.

This is not necessarily a bad thing. I have learned so much about life and the world’s ways whilst out here but also I’ve seen that Africa is not the terrible failing continent we are so often led to believe.

The Rwandans with whom I work are to the last intelligent, kind, compassionate people who work unforgiving hours in very challenging circumstances for very little reward. They do this because they care deeply about the children with whom we work and about the future of their country. They know that if Rwanda is to develop and succeed they have to ensure that everyone is on the development train, not just the rich, educated classes. These people, each one I am proud to call ‘my friend’ , are thinking people who work for their country and their people, how many in Britain, the USA or Europe can truly say that? These people are among the educated elite of their country yet they all say they would not leave their country except to study or travel- no matter how good life is outside they wish to stay here and help improve Rwanda’s world. How many in the developed world really feel like that?

Just as in other countries there are students who can think of nothing worse than school and learning, there are here too. It would be futile to try and claim that in Africa and other developing countries every child studies hard and never misbehaves- all children misbehave and all children get fed up with learning at some point- thankfully, Rwandan children are just the same, otherwise life would be very dull. Our boys, for the most part, appreciate the value of education and are fighting to make sure they use their chances well but the moment there’s the opportunity to do something more fun than learning, it is guaranteed that any number of the boys will be off, albeit with a quick glance back, apologetic look on their faces. And that’s how it should be; children being children.

Rwanda is developing. It’s not developing in a way perhaps many of us would like; Kigali is steaming ahead of the rest of the country. In Kigali? Want a DVD player? No problem. Chinese takeaway? Can do. High speed internet access? If you’re willing to pay for it. Running water? Most of the time. Electricity? We can’t guarantee it will be constant but yes, there is electricity. Strange mix of hi-tech and basic but that’s Africa, that’s how the developing world goes. 

The middle class is emerging in Rwanda. People in Kigali and even the smaller towns suddenly have a little disposable income, their children look no different to children at home; they wear baggy jeans, cool t-shirts and Nike trainers, only difference is that they probably bought most of the clothes at the open-air market in Kigali where all clothing is bought (a few shops are beginning to sell clothes in Kigali but nothing to which we in the west are used). 

The airport is the perfect place to watch the new middle class. Happy children race around the airport arrivals lounge in their clean clothes. They play games together, weaving in and out of the waiting people while their parents chat on mobile phones and admire new clothing.

While the lives of my kids are a million miles from Kigali international airport I can live in hope that that’s what these boys are aiming at. The middle classes began somewhere in Britain too, and now it’s the largest class bracket. Maybe my kids won’t have the easy life of the airport people but their kids might. All it takes is a little dedication on our part and theirs, they have to study, study, study, and believe that it can happen. Eighteen months ago if we’d have asked the boys what they wanted for their futures they would have told us that there was no point in thinking about the future as they would be dead soon. Today they tell us they want to finish school, get a job, earn money, build a house and have a family. And if that’s not positive, I don’t know what is.

Life, even here, can be beautiful.